Mike, SC Hunter. Where do you get the "white label" stuff? And what is the cost? Find all posts by venomballistics Find all threads started by venomballistics Visit venomballistics photo album. You can also pan lube them. Stand them up in a shallow pan.
Heat your lube wax until it melts. Pour it in the pan until it comes to the level of the top of the highest lube groove. Allow to cool. Peel the wax out, then push the bullets out from the wax. Alox is easier. I like the results of wax lube better.
I use a mixture of bees wax, lithium grease and ATF. Originally Posted by Clovishound. Might as well get melting! Originally Posted by venomballistics. Are they Are they soft swaged bullets with full hollow base? If they are the bullet would have to be grossly oversized not to conform to the barrel in the forcing cone.
You may not need to resize them at all. Got a caliper or even better for this application a micrometer? You gotta slug your barrel too in order to compare dimensions. If you don't want to a gunsmith can take the measurement easy. Dad gets his lead from a friend that runs a tire shop. You can "finger lube" bullets quite easily with some "wax bases" lubes. Roll the lube around in your fingers to soften it then press it into the lube groove. No big deal. A better way to pan lube is to place bullets and lube in a shallow pan and place in an oven at degrees just enough to melt.
Pan lubing works quite well when the bullets and the lube reach the same temperature. Some lubes will allow you to push the bullet out of the lube, but many need to be "cut out" with a "cookie cutter" of some sort I made some out of plain old seamless tubing, of appropriate size, with a bevel on one end. One lube I used early on in my casting was bees wax softened with Marvels Mystery Oil but vegetable oil, and olive oil are often used too. I do a lot of "dip lubing" with on my 45 ACP and.
These folks have great products at great prices and are great to deal with 3 greats? Originally Posted by rwsmith. Originally Posted by zelda. Fast lubing. Here's what I have used successfully for years. Take a regular old can of Johnson's paste wax,[ that's right the kind for your car ,not rubbing compound non abrasive] just the soft paste wax and rub it on the bullets then let dry. For fps can tippin' loads works wonderful, and one can will last for years. Pan lubing is not hard Just take the plunge and start casting Now that you will have lube stuff, you might as well get the rest of it too.
Casting is an interesting hobby in it's own. Originally Posted by CScott. I recently got about They look good to use up but they have not been lubed. Is there a way I can hand lube these? The lube coats the entire bullet just like a thin jacket. It dries to a soft, varnish-like finish that really clings. The dried coating does not degrade gunpowder. Easy to apply and eliminates the need for sizing of most cast bullets.
While it works well with all cast or swaged bullets, it works best with the micro band bullets, which are designed for tumble lubing. These bullets are marked with a TL on the Bullets page.
WARNING : Melting and casting lead objects will expose you and others in the area to lead, which is known to the State of California to cause reproductive harm and cancer. Indeed, the magnitude of each will vary for any given shot, depending on where the bullet is in the barrel -- linear acceleration will be dominant early in the shot, compression will take over as pressure peaks and radial acceleration will become more significant as the velocity increases.
Delineation of these mechanisms provides a significant level of understanding in terms of cast bullet shooting and design, as well as bullet lube formulation. However, these mechanisms still have the bullet serving as nothing more than a brute-force paintbrush, slapping on a fresh coat of grease of the bore for the next bullet in line. This is all well and good, but it is an incomplete description of the process. I believe that there is another mechanism operating, one that accentuates a second and perhaps even more important role that bullet lube serves.
Back in the 50s and 60s, some very knowledgeable Handloader's performed extensive tests to understand what made the best bullet lube and why. One of the more notable efforts in this area was the work done by E. These results were originally published in the American Rifleman, and were subsequently reprinted in "Cast Bullets" by E. The most important property of the lube formulation was found not to be the inherent lubricity of the mix, but rather its flow properties we will return to this shortly.
It is interesting to note that Mr. Harrison was singing the praises of moly loaded bullet lubes back in the s. It seems "the wheel" has been rediscovered…. Why are flow properties important? Most barrel tolerances are generally good to less than. Even a gap between the trailing edge of the land and the engraved groove of the bullet of only. The point of bringing all this up is to show how easy gas leakage is through this sort of defect channel, even though at first glance it appears to be quite small.
In addition, there are similar somewhat smaller channels on the grooves and lands, left over from the machining processes that gave rise to the rifling, and these defects also contribute to potential gas leakage.
This rapid pressurization forces the lube to flow into the defect channels in the engraved driving band in front of the lube groove, sealing off the gas flow and limiting the damage due to gas cutting. Kind of a ballistic stop-leak, if you will.
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