Apart from your choice of recipe, one other really easy but pricy way to reduce your time in the brewhouse is to automate the entire process. All-in-one brewing systems, of which there are many on the market these days, allow you to mash and boil in the same vessel.
Many also have pumps which allow you to easily lauter your grain in the same vessel too. One of my top recommendations is the Grainfather, which you can find on many online stores including Amazon. Check out Amazon for more details on current deals. Lager will take a bit longer to brew than an ale, at around 6 or more weeks and this extra time is basically just cold storing beer. Lagering involves very precise temperature changes which allow the bottom-fermenting yeast to effectively clean up the beer of any byproducts of the brewing process.
If this process is rushed or not done at the correct temperatures you will not get the clarity and clean taste which you expect from a lager. So if you are out for a quick pint, steer clear of lagers.
Wh I le it is possible to brew a low ABV ale recipe in as little as a week, I would try to plan out some more time to get a better and higher ABV beer. But if you really want to brew it quickly you want to use a highly animated yeast and forced carbonation. You will also need a beer style with a lot of character and is cloudy is as well. You can have your beer brewed and ready to drink faster with good preparation so that on your brewing day you are more efficient which in turn will reduce the amount of time it takes to brew the beer.
In general, beers with a lower specific gravity should ferment faster as the yeast has less work to do. Using yeast which attenuates eats sugars faster is also an option.
There is a yeast called Kviek yeast which allows you ferment the beer at a higher temperature up to 98 degrees F while regular yeasts can only withstand 55F to 75F without having off-flavors. To learn more about brewing beer quickly and for more inspiration read my article here: How Quickly Can You Brew Beer? Belgian beer and barley wine will take longer to brew to achieve higher alcohol content and full flavor. When choosing if you want to have a strong beer you first need to know what characteristics you want from it.
Strong beers such as barleywines should have a good malt base that has a sweet and semidry finish. Belgian tripels, on the other hand, should have a light malt, with a spicy hop, and yeast flavors. Your bock beers are should contain a malty and rich flavor with less yeast. Compared to stronger ales. If you choose to have an abbey ale these would be most often quite dark in color and have little to no dark malt sweetness.
These are just a few examples but you get the idea, plan ahead for what you want and go from there. As with many things in life, the right equipment will help you to do a task much more quickly.
Below are just some extra little toys which will significantly speed up your brew day. Cooling down your wort fast so that you can pitch it before any little nasties get into it is very important. This is a really essential time saving device! See my top choice on Amazon. This is especially true when you have those little accidents and drop something. See this item on Amazon. If they use additional ingredients, they can only be for flavouring, not to reduce cost.
The Brewers Association differentiates between brewpubs and taproom breweries. The difference between the two is that the brewpub also sells a significant quantity of food, whereas a taproom brewery mostly sells beer.
Although microbreweries, and many homebrewers, will be able to brew faster, the steps of the brewing process are basically the same. Get equipment together and clean it, take the yeast and hops out of the fridge and let them warm up.
The malted barley is mixed with the hot water in the mash tun I use a converted cooler and left to steep for between one and two hours depending on the recipe. This extracts sugars from the barley in a process called mashing. You can read more about the mashing process in this post. Next, I recirculate the wort through the grain bed and drain it off.
Additional hot water is added and also recirculated through the grain to rinse out as much of the sugar as possible. This process is called sparging and lautering. The wort is returned to the brew kettle and heated to a rolling boil. During this step, I weigh out the hops into tumblers which I line up next to the stove in the order that they will be added depends on the recipe.
The wort is then boiled for 60 minutes during which time more hops are added at different times. The exact timings and quantities of hop additions depend on the recipe. During the time I thoroughly sanitise the fermentation vessel, wort cooler, colander and other items which will come into contact with the wort once it has been boiled. Once the heat has been switched off, and the last hops are added, I typically let the wort sit for ten minutes so that the flavour of the hops can infuse.
With my setup, it takes approximately thirty minutes to cool the wort down. Once the wort has cooled, I pour it through a sanitised colander to catch the majority of the hops into the fermenter and then stir it vigorously with a mash paddle in an attempt to mix as much oxygen into the wort before pitching the yeast.
I now sprinkle the yeast on top of the wort and gently stir it in before sealing the fermenter and transferring it to the pantry where fermentation will take place.
Once the fermenter is in the pantry, I fit the airlock which I have already half filed with sanitiser. The primary fermentation takes a few days, but I typically leave the beer in the fermenter for two weeks before bottling. This allows the yeast time to clean up any unwanted by-products created during fermentation due to less than ideal temperatures. Some recipes, typically IPAs, require more hops to be added at this stage in a process called dry hopping.
Thoroughly clean and sanitise enough bottles and crown caps for the size of batch being made then leave them to dry. Transfer the beer into bottles leaving the sediment and dead yeast trub in the fermenter. Add the correct amount of priming sugar to the bottles and cap them. Some people mix the priming sugar with water and then add it to the beer before bottling. I prefer to add a measured scoop of sugar to each bottle before slowly filling with beer and capping. This may be slightly more time consuming, but I think that there is less chance of error incorrect amount of sugar or contamination.
It will remove stubborn stains and even eliminate odors. Star San is a sanitizer that is extremely effective at eliminating bacteria and other organisms that could ruin your beer. Full grain recipes require a mashing in process where you combine the grains with boiling hot water and allow it to sit for 60 minutes off the heat , to sufficiently mix the grain with the water. This is followed by sparging, which removes any residual sugars from the grains.
This entire process will take about 1 hour 30 minutes. If you are doing an extract recipe, you will skip that mashing step and proceed to the boil, where the ingredients will be added directly to the water. This cuts the lengthy process down to just the boil. The most typical size is a 5-gallon brew. Instead, you might first boil 3 gallons of water and add it to the fermenter to cool, then add another 3 gallons to the pot, which will be used to make the wort.
Doing this allows you to use a smaller brew pot than would be needed to boil the entire 5 gallons. Allow the water to come to a boil, add the extract ingredients in the order it is prescribed in the recipe. There will be specific timed phases you need to follow closely. You will boil the beer for 60 minutes adding in the hops at various stages, per your recipe. You need to be watching very carefully around the 30 minute mark for this so you can prevent an overflow.
Once the boil is complete and all ingredients have been added, the wort needs to be cooled down as quickly as possible. A wort chiller will produce the fastest results. It is a coil that you insert into the hot liquid in the brew pot and run cold water through. The coldness of the coils will rapidly cool the wort. You can continue to add ice and cold water to the sink basin, until the wort is cooled. The wort must be cooled to at least below 78 degrees before the yeast can be added, but consult the recipe for the exact temperature.
It can require a lower temperature for best results. Be careful not to disturb the wort too much while cooling. Once the wort is sufficiently cooled down, pour it into a fermenter bucket or a carboy, using a funnel. The only time in the brewing process that you want to expose your beer to air is during this step, after the liquid has been cooled down.
Adding air at any other time might oxidize and ruin the beer. At this stage, though, you need to aerate it to add oxygen back to it. Oxygen is necessary for the yeast growth and reproduction. Without it, they might die or fail to thrive. You can aerate the wort by swishing the carboy or rapidly stirring the liquid in the fermenter with a slotted spoon.
We also like to splash the liquid into the fermenter when pouring it in which is a main reason we prefer to ferment our beer in a plastic fermenter.
Some brewers go so far as to hook a drill up to a special aerator tool to rapidly add air. However you do it, make sure the wort is sufficiently aerated about minutes of swishing before pitching the yeast. There are many different types of yeast vials or packets you can purchase for use in your beer. Once the yeast has been added to the beer, you can put the lid or bung on tightly, secure the airlock in place, and set the fermenter in a cool, dark place so it can begin the process of fermentation.
Allow the beer to relax and ferment for about 10 days, without disturbing it.
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